Monday 19 December 2011

1000 Miles Later...

So it's been about two weeks since we last blogged and we have a lot to tell you.

Firstly the yellow-eyed penguin we saw near Oamaru did not quite quench our thirst for penguin spotting so when we got to the Otago Peninsula outside Dunedin we decided to head up the road to Penguin Place for a guided tour of one of the larger penguin colonies on mainland New Zealand.We got the chance to see quite a few adults feeding their chicks which was very special, as well as a few fighting fur seals and a lonely looking sea lion. The following day we drove to the far point of the peninsula where we had lunch in a cafe and watched royal albatross gliding in the breeze.

We gradually drifted south, stopping here and there, until we entered a beautiful part of New Zealand known as the Catlins Coast. This dramatic area of coastline is made up of huge cliffs that are broken up by long sandy beaches. The dirt track down to one of these beaches gave us our first taste of distress (it certainly won't be the last) as when we prepared to drive back up the track, having slept the night on the beach, we discovered one of our tyres was completely flat. After a bit of grumbling we changed the tyre and off we went to find a garage to buy a new one. After an hour waiting outside the garage and a pleasant chat with a German guy, who was also having car trouble, we continued on our way along the coast. One place that we found especially nice was Nugget Point, a band of rock that juts out into the ocean with steep sides 100 feet high. When you walk to the lighthouse at the end and look down at the rocks below they are littered with Fur Seals and their pups.

A few days later and after a little more driving we arrived at Curio Bay, a cluster of pretty holiday homes and a campsite near the sea. All around the campsite were boards with information on them about dolphins, penguins and what to do when faced with a sea lion, needless to say we were excited. We picked a spot for the van nearest the beach and checked out the area, while doing so we bumped into Mike and Hattie, a couple from Yorkshire who we first met a few days earlier during the flat tyre fiasco, we spent the next few days with them chatting and relaxing in the sun. What was supposed to be merely a one night stay turned into four. On day one we saw dolphins, and by the second day we had seen sea lions and penguins too. On day three we swam out to sea past the breaking waves and were greeted by a pod of Hector Dolphins, the smallest and rarest dolphins, which swam with us, under and around us for over half an hour, sometimes within arms reach. It was a wonderful moment that was brought to a crashing end when both Lauren and I were plunged under water by a set of huge thundering waves. Even the swallowed sea water and the salt in our eyes couldn't keep us from smiling for the rest of the day (Best of all it didn't cost a penny!). Our smiles were widened further that day when we watched two women get chased off their towels whilst sunbathing by a boisterous sea lion!

We were sad to leave the Catlins area however the journey had to continue and we had other places to explore, Mike and Hattie were heading in the same direction so we decided to spend the next few days together. After leaving Curio Bay we travelled to Invercargill to stock up on some much needed supplies (mostly beer and suncream) and do a spot of sight-seeing. We visited the Queen's Park botanical gardens home to an impressive aviary full of native birds. Then to the museum which housed some great artefacts from the early settlers, as well as a natural history section and a homage to Bert Munro (and his "Fastest Indian"). With the sight-seeing done we drove south to Bluff, one of the southern most points of the country, we had a nice walk and did a spot of fishing to christen the rod I had recently acquired. After staying the night in Bluff we drove on towards the town of Riverton and Colac Bay however a strong southerly wind had begun to blow. Wind, rain and cold was the order of the next two days, we would come back another day to see the area. It was here we parted ways with our new companions Mike and Hattie, we exchanged details and said we would meet up further down the road.

Our first checkpoint is Laurens Auntie and Uncle who live about 40k north of Invercargill in a beautiful home on a nice plot of land with panoramic views of  farmland, forest and mountains. We arrived on the 15th of December with 1700k on the odometer. In the short time we have been here we have already done so much, a return visit to Riverton to do some fishing (which turned into dolphin watching as an enormous pod of Dusky Dolphins jumped and flipped their way into the harbour), we have seen Clifden suspension bridge, been caving in a labyrinth of limestone caves, been shooting with one of Laurens cousins (couldn't find anything to shoot so shot a bucket!) and are going floundering and fishing with the cousins, George and Peter, tomorrow. We finally have a proper bed in the van, Laurens Uncle Brian gathered up some materials and set to work (I think he did it for his own enjoyment as much as our benefit). It was great fun drilling holes and screwing panels of wood into the van, and in the end we have a great looking bed with heaps of storage underneath ("Thanks Brian!").

Having been on the road for nearly a month it is a really welcome change of pace to be in a fixed location for an indefinite amount of time, and the home-cooked food and warm beds are going to make it very hard when it comes time to leave. For Christmas we are spending it with our wonderful hosts at their beach house, so when we next blog we should have some interesting stories of learning to surf, snorkeling and hopefully more dolphins!

Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year!!!

x x x x x x x x


Penguin on the Otago Peninsula

One of the Beaches in the Catlins

That Blob is a Hector Dolphin Fin

Haha!

Drying Clothes Shipwrecked Style



Curio Bay

Building a Bed with Brian, George and Gunner (the dog)

Caving

Lauren Dolphin Spotting

Fishing at Riverton

Dusky Dolphins

Dusky Dolphins


Bluff


Tuesday 6 December 2011

Beach, Beach, Penguin, Beach!

Hello

We have travelled quite a distance since we last spoke to you, about 700 km to be precise, and we have seen lots of things along the way.

Maggi is now a fully fledged camper van, complete with bed, curtains, cooking facilities and carpet and provides a very cosy nights sleep. She does however have a few flaws, she rattles like mad when you go above 80kmph, and when you go up hill the fuel gauge reads full and when you go down reads empty. 

So far we have camped on beaches and nature reserves, as well as a nice holiday park here and there (Lauren needs her nice warm showers). A few days ago we parked up by a beach south of Oamaru and sat on the beach for hours soaking up the sun, all of a sudden fifty feet away a little penguin popped out of the sea and marched up the beach beside us, this was very exciting especially as the beach down the road was charging $25 each to see them. We lay there for several more hours hoping to see more  penguins, but a sea lion cruising the coastline kept the rest of the colony away. Lauren spent the rest of that day roaming the beach collecting all manner of shells while I relaxed in the sun. We now have an impressive collection of Paua Shells which shimmer a fantastic green and purple and (Lauren hopes) will one day make some great jewellery.

The last few days we have been driving down the east coast taking in the views of the Pacific and enjoying the beautiful long beaches, along with the great weather, on our way towards the very south of the country. Yesterday we visited the famous Moeraki Boulders which are every bit as strange and fascinating as they look in photos. Tomorrow we head off towards the city of Dunedin to treat ourselves to some civilisation as well as some food that isn't fish and chips. Along with a drive around the scenic Otago Peninsula with another chance to see a some marine wildlife and a spot of snorkelling.

Having a really great time and wish you could all be here to enjoy it with us. Speak to you again soon.


Moeraki Boulders

Campbells Bay, Kakanui

Penguin at Oamaru

Collecting Paua Shells